Detroit BBQ traditions
Detroit has a long and vibrant barbecue tradition, rooted in both the history of African American culinary practices and the city’s unique urban landscape. From established neighborhood institutions to a recent surge in grassroots “pop-up” grillers, barbecue plays a significant role in Detroit’s food culture and community life. These traditions reflect not only a love of smoked and grilled meats, but also a spirit of entrepreneurship and mutual aid.
History
The origins of barbecue in the United States are deeply intertwined with the history of slavery. Traditions for salting, smoking, and pit-cooking arrived in the South via enslaved people from Africa and the Caribbean [1]. Barbecuing was labor-intensive work often assigned to enslaved people, and the techniques and flavors developed over generations became a crucial part of African American culinary heritage. While the direct path of this tradition to Detroit requires further research, the city’s significant African American population has undoubtedly contributed to the evolution of its barbecue scene.
Prior to the rise of nationally recognized barbecue chains, Detroit boasted a thriving network of small, neighborhood barbecue joints. These establishments, such as Nunn’s, Vicki’s, Lee’s, and Park’s, were central to the city’s food landscape for decades [2]. They offered a different vibe than the later, more upscale barbecue restaurants, serving as community hubs and providing affordable, flavorful meals. Joe Ann's is one of the longest-running barbecue operations in Detroit, first serving up its offerings 65 years ago [3]. These older establishments laid the groundwork for the city’s current barbecue culture.
Culture
Detroit’s barbecue culture extends beyond brick-and-mortar restaurants. A growing number of “pop-up” grillers are operating informally, setting up temporary cooking stations in vacant lots and other unconventional spaces. These pop-ups, often lacking storefronts or even signs, rely on word-of-mouth and social media to attract customers [4]. Dollar Wings N’ Things, operating on Dexter Avenue and Monterey Street, exemplifies this trend, offering dollar wings and sliders.
These pop-up operations are not merely about providing affordable food; they often serve as a way to give back to the community. Frederick Lamar, the originator of Dollar Wings N’ Things, uses the profits from his daily sales to provide free meals every Sunday, including baked chicken, cabbage, and cornbread, estimating he gives away around 200 meals each week [5]. This practice highlights the strong sense of community and mutual support that characterizes Detroit’s barbecue scene. Customers like Lakethia Morgan demonstrate the loyalty these pop-ups inspire, frequenting the stand daily for the wings [6].
Economy
The barbecue economy in Detroit is diverse, ranging from long-established businesses to informal pop-up operations. While some establishments, like Joe Ann’s, have operated for decades, the recent growth in pop-ups suggests a new wave of entrepreneurial activity. These pop-ups often provide a low-barrier-to-entry opportunity for individuals to start a food business, particularly in neighborhoods where traditional retail options are limited.
Many of these pop-up grillers are not initially focused on profit maximization. Lamar, for example, is not currently making a profit from Dollar Wings N’ Things, but is instead prioritizing providing a vital service to a community with limited access to healthy, affordable prepared food [7]. The presence of Linwood Fresh Market, a convenience store that expanded into a grocery, nearby suggests an increasing effort to address food access issues in the area [8]. The growth of pop-ups, increasing 105% in the U.S. between April 2022 and March 2023, indicates a broader trend of adaptable food businesses [9].
Neighborhoods
Historically, Detroit’s neighborhood barbecue joints were scattered throughout the city, serving as local gathering places. Establishments like Nunn’s, Vicki’s, Lee’s, and Park’s each had their own loyal following within their respective communities [10]. While the specific locations of these older establishments may have changed over time, the tradition of neighborhood barbecue continues today.
The Dexter Avenue and Monterey Street area is currently a focal point for the pop-up barbecue scene, with Dollar Wings N’ Things drawing customers from the surrounding community [11]. The opening of Linwood Fresh Market nearby suggests a growing emphasis on providing food options in this area. The concentration of these businesses highlights the potential for revitalizing underserved neighborhoods through food-based entrepreneurship. The pop-up nature of these businesses means their locations can shift, creating pockets of barbecue culture in various parts of the city.