"Goin' to the coney"
Goin’ to the coney” is a Detroit cultural phenomenon referring to the practice of visiting one of the city’s numerous coney island restaurants, typically for a Detroit-style coney dog. More than simply a meal, “goin’ to the coney” represents a social ritual and a deeply ingrained aspect of Detroit’s identity, often serving as a late-night destination and a gathering place for diverse communities. The phrase and the experience are inextricably linked to the city’s history and culinary landscape.
History
The origins of the Detroit coney dog, and thus the tradition of “goin’ to the coney,” trace back to Greek immigrants in the early 20th century. Specifically, brothers William and Gus Keros, who arrived from Greece in 1917, are credited with establishing the first coney island restaurant in Detroit, American Coney Island, in 1917. Initially a chili stand, it quickly evolved into a popular eatery. [1] The Keros brothers’ recipe for chili, a meat-sauce distinct from traditional chili con carne, became the foundation for the Detroit coney dog.
Across the street from American Coney Island, another coney island restaurant, Lafayette Coney Island, was founded in 1924 by another Greek immigrant, Louis Katsaros. The rivalry between American and Lafayette Coney Islands quickly became legendary, fueling the popularity of the coney dog and solidifying its place in Detroit’s culinary scene. Both establishments continue to operate today, maintaining their original recipes and attracting loyal customers. The competition between the two restaurants is not hostile, but rather a friendly rivalry that contributes to the unique character of the experience. The debate over which coney island serves the “better” dog is a common topic of conversation among Detroiters.
Culture
“Goin’ to the coney” transcends a simple dining experience; it’s a cultural touchstone for Detroiters. Coney islands are often open late, serving as a popular destination after sporting events, concerts, or simply for a late-night bite. The atmosphere is typically casual and bustling, with counter seating and a quick pace. The restaurants often feature a diverse clientele, reflecting the city’s multicultural population. [2]
The coney dog itself is a specific culinary creation. It consists of a natural-casing hot dog in a steamed bun, topped with a generous portion of Detroit-style chili (made with ground beef, spices, and a secret blend of seasonings), yellow mustard, and diced white onions. Variations exist, with some preferring cheese or adding other toppings, but the core elements remain consistent. The experience of eating a coney dog is often described as messy but satisfying. The phrase “goin’ to the coney” is frequently used in local slang to indicate a casual outing or a quick meal with friends. It’s a shorthand for a shared experience that resonates deeply with Detroiters.
Geography
While American and Lafayette Coney Islands are located directly across from each other in downtown Detroit, the “coney island” experience has spread throughout the metropolitan area. Numerous other restaurants, often independently owned, have adopted the Detroit-style coney dog and the associated cultural traditions. These establishments can be found in various neighborhoods across Detroit, as well as in surrounding suburbs like Hamtramck, Dearborn, and Livonia.
The concentration of coney islands in Detroit reflects the city’s historical development and the dispersal of the Greek immigrant community. Early coney islands were often located in areas with high foot traffic, such as downtown and near factories. As the city grew and changed, so too did the distribution of coney islands. Today, they can be found in a wide range of locations, catering to diverse communities and serving as neighborhood gathering places. The geographic spread demonstrates the enduring appeal of the coney dog and the tradition of “goin’ to the coney” across the region.
Attractions
Beyond the food itself, the coney islands serve as informal attractions, particularly for visitors to Detroit. American and Lafayette Coney Islands are often included on tours of the city, offering tourists a taste of local culture and cuisine. The restaurants’ historic interiors and bustling atmosphere provide a glimpse into Detroit’s past. The proximity of the two restaurants encourages visitors to sample coney dogs from both establishments and form their own opinions on which is superior.
The surrounding area of downtown Detroit also contributes to the appeal of “goin’ to the coney.” The restaurants are located near other attractions, such as Comerica Park (home of the Detroit Tigers) and Ford Field (home of the Detroit Lions), making them a convenient stop for fans attending sporting events. The vibrant street life and the presence of other restaurants and businesses add to the overall experience. The coney islands are not isolated destinations but rather integral parts of the downtown Detroit landscape.
Getting There
Accessing the original coney islands in downtown Detroit is relatively straightforward. Public transportation options include the Detroit Department of Transportation (DDOT) bus system and the QLine streetcar, which has a stop near the restaurants. Parking is available in nearby garages and on-street parking, although it can be limited during peak hours. [3]
For those traveling from outside the city, Detroit Metropolitan Airport (DTW) is the nearest major airport. From the airport, visitors can take a taxi, ride-sharing service, or the SMART bus system to reach downtown Detroit. Reaching other coney islands located outside of downtown requires utilizing local roads and public transportation options specific to those areas. The accessibility of the coney islands, both in terms of transportation and location, contributes to their enduring popularity.