"Goin' to the coney"
"Goin' to the coney" is a Detroit cultural phenomenon referring to the practice of visiting one of the city's numerous coney island restaurants, typically for a Detroit-style coney dog. More than simply a meal, "goin' to the coney" represents a social ritual and a deeply ingrained aspect of Detroit's identity, often serving as a late-night destination and a gathering place for diverse communities. The phrase and the experience are inextricably linked to the city's history and culinary landscape.
History
The origins of the Detroit coney dog, and thus the tradition of "goin' to the coney," trace back to Greek immigrants in the early 20th century. Brothers William and Gus Keros, who arrived from Greece, are credited with establishing American Coney Island in 1917, making it one of the earliest dedicated coney dog establishments in the city. Initially a chili stand, American Coney Island quickly evolved into a full-service eatery that drew workers, residents, and visitors in significant numbers.[1] The Keros brothers' recipe for chili, a meat sauce distinct from traditional chili con carne, became the foundation for what is now recognized as the Detroit coney dog.
Directly across the street, Lafayette Coney Island was founded in 1924 by Greek immigrant Louis Katsaros. The proximity of the two establishments gave rise to one of Detroit's most enduring culinary debates: which restaurant serves the superior coney dog. Both American and Lafayette use a beef-based chili sauce, a natural-casing hot dog, and diced white onions, but the seasoning blends differ in ways that loyal customers describe as unmistakable. American Coney Island's chili is widely described as slightly sweeter and more finely textured, while Lafayette's sauce is said to be coarser and more savory. The two restaurants' recipes have never been officially published in full. Both establishments continue to operate as of 2024, maintaining their original counter-service format and drawing visitors alongside long-standing regulars.
The Greek immigrant community's role in shaping Detroit's coney island culture wasn't accidental. Across the Midwest, Greek immigrants in the early 20th century frequently entered the restaurant business, drawn to food service as an accessible point of entry into the American economy. Detroit, with its booming automotive industry and rapidly growing population, offered a particularly concentrated market. Coney islands offered a low-overhead, high-volume model that suited the economics of immigrant entrepreneurship. That pattern shaped the entire city's food landscape for generations.
Culture
"Goin' to the coney" is a cultural touchstone for Detroiters. Coney islands are typically open late into the night, serving as a reliable destination after Detroit Tigers games at Comerica Park, concerts, or late shifts at work. The atmosphere is casual and quick-paced, with counter seating, laminated menus, and an informal energy that distinguishes coney islands from sit-down restaurants.[2] The clientele tends to reflect the city's diverse population, with coney islands functioning as one of the few dining spaces in Detroit where different neighborhoods and backgrounds converge over the same meal.
The coney dog itself is a specific culinary creation. It consists of a natural-casing hot dog in a steamed bun, topped with Detroit-style chili, yellow mustard, and diced white onions. Variations exist. Some diners add shredded cheddar cheese; others order the hot dog plain, known as a "naked dog." But the core combination is consistent across virtually every Detroit-area coney island. The experience of eating one is frequently described as messy, fast, and satisfying in a way that more elaborate meals rarely are.
The phrase "goin' to the coney" functions in local slang as shorthand for a casual outing, a quick meal with friends, or a late-night plan with no particular formality attached. It's used in conversation the way other cities might reference grabbing a slice of pizza or hitting a diner. Local musicians, comedians, and writers have referenced the tradition in interviews and liner notes as a signifier of authentic Detroit identity, grounding the phrase in the city's broader cultural self-image.[3]
Detroit-style coney dogs are also distinct from Flint-style coney dogs, a comparison that comes up often among Michigan food enthusiasts. Flint's version uses a drier, heartier chili sauce made with beef heart and a different spice profile, while Detroit's version relies on a looser, ground-beef-based sauce. The two styles share Greek immigrant origins but diverged early in their respective city histories. Detroiters tend to be protective of the distinction.
Geography
While American and Lafayette Coney Islands are located directly across from each other in downtown Detroit, the coney island experience has spread throughout the metropolitan area. Numerous other restaurants, often independently owned, have adopted the Detroit-style coney dog and the associated cultural traditions. These establishments can be found across Detroit's neighborhoods as well as in surrounding suburbs including Hamtramck, Dearborn, and Livonia.
Several regional chains have grown out of the coney island tradition. Leo's Coney Island operates dozens of locations across Metro Detroit and is one of the most recognized names in the broader coney landscape. National Coney Island, another chain, has a presence throughout southeast Michigan. These larger operations differ from the historic downtown establishments in scale and atmosphere, but they maintain the core menu and counter-service format that defines the genre. Collectively, estimates from food industry observers suggest there are well over 100 coney island restaurants in the Detroit metropolitan area, though no single authoritative count has been published.
The concentration of coney islands in Detroit reflects the city's historical development and the dispersal of the Greek immigrant community. Early coney islands clustered in areas with high foot traffic, including downtown and near automotive factories on the city's east and west sides. As Detroit's population shifted across decades, coney islands followed their customers into new neighborhoods and suburbs. That geographic spread shows the enduring appeal of the tradition across a changing region.
Notable Establishments
American Coney Island and Lafayette Coney Island remain the most widely recognized coney island restaurants in Detroit, functioning as both active restaurants and informal landmarks. American Coney Island, still operated by descendants of the Keros family, has expanded its brand through packaged goods and mail-order chili kits in addition to its original Lafayette Boulevard location. Lafayette Coney Island, located immediately adjacent, has remained comparatively low-key in its marketing while retaining a devoted local following. The side-by-side placement of the two restaurants makes them a natural stop on food-focused visits to downtown Detroit.
Leo's Coney Island, founded in 1972, represents a later generation of Detroit coney island culture. With locations across the metro area, it introduced a broader menu beyond the traditional coney dog while keeping the format and atmosphere consistent with the original tradition. National Coney Island, another established chain, has served Southeast Michigan since 1965 and similarly expanded its menu over time. Neither chain claims the singular historic prestige of American or Lafayette, but both are considered legitimate participants in the broader coney island tradition by longtime Detroiters.
Attractions
Beyond the food itself, coney islands serve as informal attractions, particularly for visitors to Detroit. American and Lafayette Coney Islands are frequently included in food tours of the city, offering a direct experience of local culinary culture. The restaurants' historic interiors and counter-service format provide a contrast to newer downtown dining establishments, and their continued operation on the same block where they opened decades ago gives them a historical weight that visitors find notable.
The surrounding area of downtown Detroit adds to the appeal. Both restaurants sit within walking distance of Comerica Park, home of the Detroit Tigers, and Ford Field, home of the Detroit Lions. After-game crowds are a regular part of the coney island experience on event nights, reinforcing the connection between the restaurants and the city's sports culture. The presence of other restaurants, businesses, and street activity on Lafayette Boulevard and the surrounding blocks means the coney islands aren't isolated stops but part of a walkable stretch of downtown Detroit.
Getting There
Accessing the original coney islands in downtown Detroit is straightforward. Public transportation options include the Detroit Department of Transportation (DDOT) bus system and the QLine streetcar, which has a stop near the restaurants. Parking is available in nearby garages and on-street spaces, though availability can be limited during peak hours around sporting events and concerts.[4]
For those traveling from outside the city, Detroit Metropolitan Airport (DTW) is the nearest major airport. From the airport, visitors can reach downtown Detroit by taxi, ride-sharing service, or the SMART regional bus system. Reaching coney island locations outside of downtown requires using local roads or neighborhood-specific transit options. The accessibility of coney islands across the metro area, whether in downtown Detroit or a suburban strip mall, is part of what has kept the tradition available to a broad and geographically dispersed population.